5/6/09

Dandy Manifesto

I am definitely a summer person. No school, vacation, sun, long nights, heat...but I never have anything to wear. I hate the cold weather, but it's always easier to dress when the weather is cooler. Here are some of my favorite trends for Fall/Winter 09-10.





DANDY MANIFESTO

Context

The world of books, writing, manuscripts, calligraphy and coded language. A theme combining the somewhat stuffy elegance of the Oscar Wilde style dandies with a bohemian, more modern, poetic, “artist” spirit. An androgynous silhouette: chic and decadent for a look both outdated yet contemporary.

Colours
A dark, shady range in a variety of inky tones. Touches of color electrify the palette. And to tone it all down: white and taupy or grayed shades.

Beauty
Experimental, audacious make-up borrows from Dadaism, typography and photo-montage.

Two palettes co-exist: the first explores paper, whiteness and material effects, while the second, darker range is inspired by ink, pencil, charcoal and graphite.

Materials
Men’s supple, ultra-fine worsted wools in the spirit of Savile Row tailors
Stripes used with subtlety: discreet banker’s stripes, stippled chalk stripes, tuxedo pants emphasized with a band of tone-on-tone satin. A graphic spirit borrowed from the wide stripes of club ties or men’s satin waistcoats
Fluid fabrics, heavily drapey silks: crêpe, crêpe georgette, chiffon
Delicate lace and embroidered tulles
Jacquards and tapestry-style weaves are inspired by the elaborate covers of old books

Key Women’s’ Products
Redingote-coats. Short 2-in-1 jackets (jacket + waistcoat). Little men’s waistcoats.
Cigarette-legged pants and darted cropped pants.
Striped shirts or with plastrons, shirttails, with scarves and lavallières.
Cardigans. With tailored collars, belted, Jacquard
Oversized jackets
Skintight miniskirts in stretch cotton with rock details: zips, buckles, insets
Lace tops and dresses.

Key Men’s Products
Tuxedo spirit, fitted cuts, in a sportswear mood
Short coats in little English checks, basket weaves, tweed. Duffle-coats
Historical military coats: engraved ball buttons and double-breasted
Prints: checks and flowers for hunting jackets, waistcoats and tapered pants.
Riding jackets, short, buttoned and fitted.

Accessories
Women: lambskin gloves. Textile shoes, decorated pumps, with patent or gimped and perforated toes. Material mixes for bags: skins, crocodile, and natural leather
Men: caps inspired by riding hats. Tartan ties. Military and riding boots. Checked Borsalinos.
 

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